Booster’s Buoy is the former Chartroom Charlie’s, which then became Wharf 209 for what turned out to be a run of only about 16 months. In October 2016, Keith Randolph, owner of two other Milwaukee-area bars, bought the bar-restaurant and reopened it as Booster’s Buoy.

Exactly one year after Keith Randolph bought the property, he brought in his brother Brian Randolph of San Antonio, Texas, as general manager and executive chef.

“We are taking Texas flavors and my unique approach to food and embracing as many local ingredients and dishes as possible,” Brian said.

At age 44, Brian brings more than 27 years of culinary experience.

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Food for the famous

Brian has great stories from his years in the business. He cooked for numerous celebrities while working in Tapatio Springs, Texas, at Tapatio Resort.

When Brian was 18 or 19, he met his first celebrity at Tapatio. He was sent out of the kitchen to serve flaming cherries jubilee to country singer Reba McEntire — and set her tablecloth afire.

“She was very sweet about it,” Brian said, laughing at the memory.

Brian also cooked for two U.S. presidents after he was recruited to work at Christopher’s World Grille in College Station, Texas.

“Christopher’s was the exclusive caterer for the Bush Presidential Library,” Brian explained. “And the Bush family has a residence there. So I got to cook for Bush Senior quite often. And, obviously, got to cook for Junior when he came to visit. So that was really fun.

“I did some V.I.P. dinners for right around 80 to 100 people,” Brian continued. “… In fact (Booster’s Buoy’s) cocoa- and espresso-rubbed New York strip is one I used to do for them.”

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New lunch and dinner menus

Brian has thoroughly revamped the Booster’s menu and brought in the technique of cold smoking. He uses it with four menu items including the cocoa- and espresso-rubbed New York strip, a dish he created.

“Cold smoking is kind of a lost art,” Chef Randolph said. The process results in meat that is cooked on the grill — but exudes the rich taste and smell of having been cooked on a wood grill with apple wood and mesquite chips.

Brian continued, “Our Booster’s oysters — I love oysters Rockefeller … but everybody does oysters Rockefeller. So I added andouille sausage and a tabasco aioli.”

He also uses that first ingredient in the andouille corn chowder, available every day.

Another new Boosters appetizer is cheddar cheese curds with a smoked tomato jam.

“It’s funny: I had never cooked a cheese curd until I got up here,” Brian said. “Obviously it’s a popular dish; people love them. But I couldn’t just leave that alone, I had to do something a little different.” So, he creates his own smoked tomato jam for curd dipping.

Brian's goals include not only ultraconsistent food, but also speed: He wants every dish served within 15 minutes.